Interview with Claire Goldsmith, the founder of Oliver Goldsmith
Text MIO HAYASHI

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Oliver Goldsmith was started in London in 1927 and has been making eyewear, which was synonimous with 20th century icons. During this time, eyewear became a fashion accessory thanks to the contributions made by brands like OG. A family business and tradition, today it is run by its 4th generation member, Claire Goldsmith. She is also the founder of the current store in London: ¨It was in my genes to get into this business. I decided to open a store when more and more people were knocking on my office door asking to buy sunglasses. It seemed the most logical thing to do – to have a place to house all our collections and showcase our vintage frames. We like to think of it as more than just a store, more like an eyewear emporium!¨

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Asked to describe the ¨It¨ styles of the moment, she suggests refined, understated classic styles that are lightweight. Additionally, the other extreme of excessively heavy styles with bold colours or dynamic lens choices are trending at the moment. Although Claire´s belief about eyewear is that it is so personal and it doesn´t follow trends the same way fashion does, she points out that good bold colors will have their time throughout this year.

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When choosing a certain style of glasses according to face shapes, Claire goes by the basic rule: ¨Round/oval faces usually suit a more angled, square frame to give focus, whereas a more angular or narrow face can be softened by the lines of a curved frame.¨ However, she adds, ¨like any rules, they are made to be broken, my grandfather always said ´find a frame that you love and never mind what anyone else thinks!´ ¨

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Oliver Goldsmith
15 All Saints Road
London, W11 1HA, UK
Tel +44 207 460 0844
www.olivergoldsmith.com

Interview mit Martin Carstensen von Funk Optik, Berlin
Fotos & Interview CHARLOTTE KRAUß

Das von Dieter Funk 1992 gegründete Label Funk entwirft nicht nur die eigenen Designs sondern produziert sie seit 2008 auch selbst in-house. Martin, der so ziemlich seit Entstehung des Labels dabei war, hat mir die neuesten Funkschätze gezeigt und mir einiges zu den aktuellen Designs verraten.

Bei Martin im Schrank findet man natürlich neben einigen Vingtagestücken ausschließlich Funkbrillen. Das Label bietet mit seinen aktuellen Kollektionen auch reichlich Abwechslung. Bei der Formfindung hat Funk verschiedene Dekaden der Optik kombiniert, „dass heißt man hat halt relativ klassische Formen, aber relativ clean runter reduziert und puristisch gebaut. Das bekommt etwas zeitloses unikes.“ erklärt mir Martin. Dieser Trend zieht sich gerade durch die gesamte Brillenwelt. Auch bei den verarbeiteten Materialien. „Da gibt es zum einen das bewährte Acetat und dann wird jetzt viel mit Stahl und Titan gemacht. Die Brille „Hathor“ aus der Linie Funkroyal beispielsweise ist aus keinem typischen Brillenmaterial gebaut. Klar Metallbrillen gibt es schon immer, aber dieser spezielle Stahl kommt ursprünglich aus der Industrie. Wir haben daraus eine funktionelle, sicherlich 80iger Jahre getouchte Brille gemacht.

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Als Erstbrille würde er zunächst einen straighten Allrounder empfehlen. „Dann kann man sich danach seinen Stock von verschiedenen Styles drumherum aufbauen.“ Auch bei der Abendgaderobe setzt er auf Abwechslung. „Klar zu einem schwarzen Anzug eine klassische schwarze Brille, da kannst Du nix falsch machen. Allerdings würde eine rundes Metallgestell dazu auch harmonieren. Die Sonnenbrille für den Club und zum Petikotkleid ein geiles Cateyemodell.“
Die liebe zur Brille steckt bei Funk in jedem Detail, denn „es gibt kein anderes Acessoir womit man soviel bewegen kann. Sie sitzt halt nun mal am prominentesten Platz mitten auf der Nase.“

FunkOptikBerlin

Funk Optik
Oranienburger Str. 87
10178 Berlin
Tel +49 30 2759 0511
www.funk-eyewear.com

Interview mit Zoe Nightingale von The Monocle Order, Brooklyn, New York
Fotos LANCE CHESHIRE
Interview MIO HAYASHI

Coming from a mix of creative backgrounds of fashion, art and music, Zoe Nightingale, the founder of The Monocle Order in New York, tells us she was always fascinated by eyewear, for being the sole accessory used across all artistic platforms, drastically changing the facial structure and look in an instant.

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Based on the belief that logo doesn´t equal quality, the focus of the selection is one-of-a-kind, specialty pieces. Courting and finding educated consumers, who buy and support small local brands has been the uphill challenge for the Williamsburg-based store, which celebrates its 3-year old anniversary this September.

Zoe´s favorite pairs include the model Vidal Erkohen by RVS Eyewear, a chic and elegant style that gives off a ¨cat eyes¨ effect. Her tips for the second pair of glasses would be going for a bolder, brighter and sexier look than what one is used to, experimenting with colors, textures and shapes: ¨You will be amazed at what will happen when you take a chance to brighten up everyone else´s visual landscape with something avant garde and colorful.¨

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The hightlight for this fall season includes nylon 3D printer material, RVS titanium series and any models made by Mykita. Having noted such, her most sincere advice is never to follow trends, but rather go for something that makes our hearts skip. The objective of Monocle Order is to help consumers find just that – the confidence within ourselves to wear what we want, with no apolgies.

The Monocle Order
5 Devoe Street
Brooklyn, NY 11211, USA
Tel +1 866 238 7963
www.monocleorder.com

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Photo GUENTHER SCHWERING
Text CHARLOTTE KRAUß

Interview with Hauke Peters, Mitgründer von Six Million Glasses

His father already had several optician stores in Bremen. The siblings Peters: Hauke, Marc and Bettina though different paths in life earlier, they found their way back to optics. Hauke and Marc relocated to Hamburg in the meantime, where they run their shop Six Million Glasses at Schanze next to Neonbox in Ottensen in Hamburg. Six Million Glasses gives a nod to the style of the 60s. There is no way they could not offer the famous Moscot glasses.

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Hauke, the older one of the two brothers, likes to build his one version of a model when he goes to trade fairs. “Five years ago I began to make those really old and big Mosley Tribes metal frames as corrective glasses even though I could hardly get lenses for them.“ His clients value both his firm sense of style and his eagerness to experiment.
“Clients who I have known for a long time just walk into the store and say ‘Come on, just put a pair on my face’ and then walk away again. That’s pretty cool actually.“ This season Hauke values the shapes of the Garrett Leight collection and the surface feel of labels like Dita, Barton Perreira and Reiz.

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A tip from Hauke: a wide shape makes the face appear narrower and the eyes should be in the centre of the frame. But after all the most important thing is that “you find a find glasses that fit your personal style and when you get it right, it doesn’t matter whether they are rimless spectacles or a really bold acetate frame. Because in the end the face still tells the story and not the frame.“

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Six Million Glasses
Schulterblatt 3
20357 Hamburg
Tel +49 40 4130 4740
www.sixmillionglasses.de

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Joan Gassó, Kaleos Óptica
Interview MIO HAYASHI

Derived from Greek word meaning ¨kaleidoscope¨, which consists of ¨cali-¨ for ¨beautiful¨ and ¨-eidos¨ for ¨shape¨ or ¨image¨, it suggests the concept of Kaleos, be it in a form of a shop, a face, or what one sees through the lenses. Founded in Barcelona 2 years ago, its main objective has been creating a model that combines fashion and optical health, in order to respond to the needs of those that have a particular sensibility to glasses. With this objective in mind, the brand´s original collection was launched a year later. It boasts a wide range of styles to suit every personality, offered at a rather affordable price point.

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As for choosing a pair of glasses, the founder Joan Gassó suggests that there are a couple of important factors: ¨One is the client´s style, which will help us to see what suits him/her best, even if it´s something not expected. That´s one of the things that the client would appreciate a lot, being able to try something that gives a twist to their own style that makes it look even more amazing. Another important factor is knowing what shapes and colours will look better, according to the face/bone structure/skin and hair colour. ¨

Although Kaleos original collection aims to include pieces that will not go out of style with the changing trends, Joan points out that oversized glasses with light colour lenses are a notable trend this season, which directly reflects the revival of 70´s in fashion. Additionally, the use of metal mixed with acetates has also been proving very popular as far as the eyewear trend is concerned.

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Kaleos Óptica
Carrer de Muntaner, 242
08021 Barcelona, Spain
Tel + 34 93 2007 478
www.kaleos.es

Photo: courtesy of Kaleos

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